We pitched camp in the dark, joking about serial killers, having got to the site after 1am.
I said but there's lots of cars down there and Matthew the tax collector trailed off with "and no....people....."
and round the corner is
But we are climbing up to that saddle first, see it is about halfway up to the top from here anyway, and it is steps. The Devil's Staircase indeed. I am a sprinter (not quite), and get to take large rests waiting for the others and trying to identify foreign languages. It is blazingly sunny. The track peters out at the saddle and we sit for a while, going numb in the wind and putting layers of clothing back on. (naaassssssty hobbitses, we shall lose them at the sssummmmitt)
It is three hours to the summit and back from here. Looking up, it is just a great pile of gravel.
It IS gravel. And small scoria rocks. And large ones, none of which are connected to each other in the least. I think grovelling would be more accurate a term than climbing. Surely all the climbers eventually make the mountain lower with all the stones they are constantly pulling down.
It's only thirty degrees but it looks like sixty at least from here and we talk about visual psychology.
Singing S Club 7 when we were justabout at the summit. Don't stop, never give up, got to get high and reach the top,
It is not a summit it is a crater. That other little crater over there is shooting out steam!!! And over there, Taranaki!!! Peeping out of the clouds! Not often you see its summit. We are so above the clouds. When we look down to where we came from, that Devil's Staircase looks flat. I know damn well it's not. As for Tongariro, which is a mountain that people climb, well, it's not really a mountain, is it?

(That blue lake is one of Tongariro's craters, and behind it you can see Lake Taupo)
Snow on the other volcanos, snow in this crater. Magical. Collective exhileration, people dotted round the crater. Some nutty German is in the bottom of it, why??
We sit on the edge of it and eat apples.
While up there, I decide to run the half-marathon back in Wellington and only ever attempt things that I am not sure I can do. All that gravitational potential is intense. I am high on endorphins and victory.
Back to the scree slopes, where there is the periodic call of "ROCK" and everyone stops and looks up to dodge. It is fun making slow deliberate steps in the loose pebbles that slide for several feet.
The Devil's Staircase again. Steps!! What a luxury.
My left eye was pissing pus by this stage, but it was better in the morning so I went to the thermal pools instead of the doctor. It wasnt sore, just annoying. Must've just been full of that fine grey dust. That blister on my sole must be fifty cents size. LOOK AT MY BRUISES how did I get one on the front of my knee? I only recall falling backwards. Cool. The anatomy graduate gives us musculoskeletal advice. I love Otago expats. They are adventurous, and healthsciency.
Let us leave this godforsaken place.